Meals follow the natural rhythm of the island. Breakfast is best enjoyed on a quiet terrace. Most hotels put out a nice spread—but for a change of scenery, venture out for a granita and brioche at Caffe Mazzini or sip a pistachio coffee while watching the colorful fishing boats bob in harbor outside of The Sailor’s Bar.
Expect a similarly uncomplicated and unhurried affair for lunch. Located on Lido Burrone, La Nassa is the sort of place you’re likely to happen upon by accident (at least, that’s what happened to us) and return to multiple days in a row for the fresh raw tuna with a drizzle of olive oil and spaghetti with clams.
Prefer to skip the sit-down experience? Grab a sandwich (or two) from Pacelli22. I still dream about the porchetta-style tuna with caramelized onions and arugula on fresh-baked focaccia. Sunbathers on the rocky coastline of Cala Scivolo are quite literally a stone’s throw from Er Paninaroa food truck that slings tuna paninis, arancini, and house-made granita that spins in machines all day long.
After a shower and slipping into something effortless (or simply tossing on a tank top and shorts over your bikini), the town calls with its warm glow and the scent of briny-ness and grilled fish wafting through the air. For an aperitivo in the heart of it all, nab one of the high-top tables on old barrels at Viino. Patrons can order a spritz or Sicilian wine by the glass or, better yet, pick a bottle from the shop inside, which the staff will gladly open and put on ice. Chips, olives, and peanuts come in little dishes to nibble as you sip and soak in the scene.