I’m a Peru Travel Expert—Here’s How I’d Eat My Way Through Lima

Though I’m currently based between London and Menorca, my birthplace of Lima—the capital of Peru, located on the central coast—remains my forever home. Every fall, I return when the skies clear and the weather turns golden, and each time, I am met with familiar, flavorful, and fun surprises.

The capital is home to some of the most celebrated restaurants on the planet—CentralMaido, Kjolle, to start—but my favorite way to experience the city is by seeking out quiet standouts, local obsessions, and neighborhood haunts that reflect the true spirit of Peru’s wildly layered culinary culture.

Lima defies culinary expectations at every turn. It’s a place where no-frills Chifa (Peruvian-Chinese fusion cuisine) can be one of the best meals of your trip, or where a coffee bar hidden below a chocolate lab might introduce you to single-estate beans and Amazonian cacao in the same sitting. This city is delicious, addictive, and if you have a weekend, here’s exactly how you should eat your way through it.

Friday: Barranco and Miraflores Gems

Ease into Lima’s flavor-forward spirit in Ravinean artistic and free-spirited district situated on the Pacific coast, just south of Miraflores. Start the day off at Demoa tiny café and bakery known for its flaky croissants and Peruvian coffee. It’s owned by the mastermind behind Mérito restaurant—Venezuelan chef Juan Luis Martínez. A few blocks away is third-wave coffee gem, Ciclos Café, where upstairs, hidden above the café, is a chocolate tasting lab that features rare native varieties you won’t find on any mainstream menu.

For lunch, head north to Miraflores, Lima’s residential and upscale shopping district. Dine at The marketa restaurant well-known for its ceviche and grilled octopus.

For dinner, make your way back to Barranco and reserve a table at Merit. With its minimalist interiors and wood-clad warmth, it’s one of Lima’s most intriguing kitchens. Here, Chef Martínez blends his Venezuelan heritage with Peruvian ingredients to produce small, expressive plates using items like yucca leaves and fermented corn.

Lastly, cap the night off with a glass of natural wine at Cordial, a relaxed spot that plays vinyl records and feels more like a living room than a bar.

Saturday: Market Culture and Nikkei Cuisine

Start your morning at Coffee point in Miraflores. It’s a coffee shop run by Peruvian barista Marco Solórzano, who previously won Spain’s national coffee championship, and now curates micro-lot beans across Peru.

After you’ve had your daily cup, take a short stroll to Mercado de Surquillo, one of Lima’s most authentic markets. Wander through the stalls to see jungle fruits you’ve never heard of, giant corn in all shades of cream and purple, and glistening piles of freshly caught fish. Grab a seat at one of the Posts (market stalls) for a bowl of chicken broth (traditional chicken soup) or a perfectly grilled Anticucho skewer.

If you’re still peckish, however, there’s a little family-run cevichería just off the main aisle where the Tiger milk (a citrus-based marinade used in ceviche) is so bracingly fresh, you’ll feel revived. There’s no drama, just lime and fresh fish.

In the evening, lean into Nikkei cuisine, Lima’s singular fusion of Japanese and Peruvian flavors. Skip the globally known Maido restaurant and try I take cooking nikkei in Miraflores, for sushi and fresh fish; or Shizen Restaurante Nikkeijust north in the district of San Isidro, for handmade udon.

Sunday: Slow Food and Sincere Surprises

Again in Miraflores, seek out Millimetricaa cult favorite among locals for its outrageously good coffee. The space itself is unassuming, but the beans are harvested directly by the owners, and then roasted to bring out specific flavors.

Spend the late morning wandering Miraflores’ flower- and park-lined streets, where colonial facades house contemporary galleries—like Casa Prado, an 18th-century building that’s now a convention center. If you have time, visit Amano, Pre-Columbian Textile Museumfor its exhibitions and archaeological objects from pre-Columbian Peruvian cultures.

For lunch, head to Isolina Peruvian restaurant in Barranco, and one of my personal favorite spots in Lima. It serves elevated comfort food with heart and heritage—think Dry Sting Roast (a cilantro-based stew made of short ribs), creamy cause (mashed potatoes seasoned with chili peppers and lime juice), and soulful chicken chili (shredded chicken in a sauce made with aji amarillo peppers and nuts).

Sunday night is when most of Lima’s major players go dark—and that’s exactly when you should book Mayta restaurant. Open only for a tasting menu on Sundays, this quiet standout offers a poetic take on contemporary Peruvian cuisine. It’s ingredient-driven, seasonal, and plated by prominent Peruvian chef Jaime Pesaque.

Final Thoughts

Lima isn’t just a city of restaurants—it’s a city of wild flavors, thoughtful producers, and deeply-rooted stories that are felt in every cup of coffee, spoonful of tiger milk, or bite of river fish. If you follow the city’s quieter currents, you’ll find its culinary heart beats strongest in the places most people overlook.

Marisol Mosquera is a member of Travel + Leisure’s A-List and specializes in Bolivia & Peru trips. You can create a tailor-made itinerary with Mosquera by contacting her at ​​(email protected).