The Essential Guide to Villefranche-sur-Mer, France

There’s a popular image often used to illustrate the enduring beauty of not only the Côte d’Azur, but Mediterranean Europe as a whole: a huddle of colorful, waterfront houses cascading down to a calm, yacht-speckled sea. Every time I see it, on an Instagram post or magazine cover (or as the lead image of this guide), I pinch myself. Because one of those buildings in the picture is my home.

The place in question is Villefranche-sur-Mer, a coastal resort town so close to Nice that it begins where the popular French city ends. I moved here eight years ago, after a decade of living in Nice, to a chorus of disappointment from my city-dwelling friends. “You’re moving to the suburbs,” they moaned. “We’ll never see you again.”

How I rolled my eyes—Villefranche (as it is commonly called) is a 10-minute bus ride from Nice’s buzzing port district, where we would gather for after-work drinks on Friday nights. I guess they sensed something that I didn’t know at the time, however. Villefranche may be joined to Nice at its eastern hip, but it feels a world away from the bustle of the big city—even on the days when a cruise ship is anchored in its magnificent bay. And, with what not just feels like—but often is really is—a film set waiting for me whenever I step outside my front door, I felt my desire to visit Nice quickly slip away.

You may recognize the village from the movies, too. Flicks like “To Catch a Thief” and “Never Say Never Again,” alongside modern favorites such as “Pitch Perfect 3,” were shot here. The village was also used to film Saint-Tropez scenes in the second season of Emily in Paris. Rumor has it that the fourth season of The White Lotus is on its way to Saint-Jean-Cap-Ferrat across the bay, as well. And with the stunning scenery here, it’s easy to see why.

“Villefranche-sur-Mer is a little bit of paradise on a very busy stretch of coastline,” Travel + Leisure A-List Advisor Philip Haslett of French Promise tells T+L.

Yet, since Villefranche is packed tightly into a curve of the waterfront, travelers who drive along the tiered coastal roads that connect Nice and Monaco often miss it. “It’s iconic, and yet unknown,” says Haslett.

If you’re looking for a base on the French Riviera that’s more relaxed than Monaco and less busy than Nice, yet still within easy reach of both, Villefranche is your spot. Plus, it still has that old-school glamor that the Côte d’Azur is so well-known for.

Here’s what you need to know before planning a trip to Villefranche-sur-Mer.

Best Hotels & Resorts

Welcome Hotel

Run by the same family since 1943, the peach-hued Welcome Hotel is a Villefranche-sur-Mer institution. Locals and visitors alike still flock to its quayside terrace for an aperitif served with a side of people watching, just like Jean Cocteau, who lived in room 22, and his friends once did. Each of the 35 charming rooms and suites in this boutique hotel has a balcony and sea views.

Grand-Hotel du Cap-Ferrat, A Four Seasons Hotel

The most storied address in the Villefranche zip code was also voted one of T+L Readers’ favorite resorts in France of 2025: Grand-Hotel du Cap-Ferrat, A Four Seasons Hotel. Since 1908, this grand property has stood tall amid a forest of pines at the water’s edge in the neighboring village of Saint-Jean-Cap-Ferrat, a hideaway for those in the know, complete with Michelin-starred dining, private villas, and a pool area at the edge of the Mediterranean. The cast of The White Lotus might just be checking in here for the fourth season, too.

Best Things to Do

Citadelle Saint-Elme

Villefranche’s high-walled Citadelle Saint-Elme was built in the 16th century to deter invaders, but today it should be on every visitor’s to-do list, because of the fragrant garden that grows inside its walls and its treasure trove of art. Although the museums are currently closed for renovation, the site itself serves as an open-air art gallery with a busy calendar of exhibitions throughout the year. The scene is particularly enchanting over three days in June, when it becomes the stage for Festival creaman ultra-chic electro-pop festival.

Villefranche Old Town

With their pastel-pretty facades and flower box gardens that residents tend to with utmost care, the colorful alleys of Villefranche-sur-Mer are made for impromptu Instagram shoots. Have your camera ready along Rue Volti and Rue Baron de Brès, two of the most charming streets in the village. Closer to the harbor, visiting Rue Obscure (a 427-feet-long covered passageway that dates back to the 14th century) feels like stepping back into the Middle Ages. You almost expect to see someone running past with a torch and disappearing into one of the centuries-old doorways.

La Chapelle Saint-Pierre

Jean Cocteau’s influence can be felt across the French Riviera, from Menton to Hyères, but this jewel-box of a fishermen’s chapelwith every surface covered in the artist’s signature whimsical brushstrokes, is the French writer and artist’s most beloved legacy. “It’s one of my favorite gems in Villefranche-sur-Mer,” says Haslett. “Clients always prefer it to more famous sites, like the Matisse Chapel in nearby Vence.” Just don’t try to take any photos. “The lady is very fierce if you try to,” says Haslett with a laugh. “I did actually manage to take a photo, and then she saw me getting my camera ready for a second one, and that didn’t happen!”

Marinières beach

Many first-time visitors to the French Riviera are surprised to find that many of the beaches around Nice are, in fact, covered in pebbles rather than soft sand. However, since the pebbles are much smaller and finer in Villefranche than in Nice, its Crescent-Shaped Plage des Marinières is one of the region’s most beloved beaches. If pebbles aren’t your thing, don’t worry. During the warmer months, two private beach clubs, Soleia house and Les Marinières Plagepop up for the season, with rows of inviting sun loungers, flowing Provence rosé and a cool soundtrack of summer tunes. Just make sure you book in advance.

French Institute

When celebrities and royalty want to perfect their French, Villefranche-sur-Mer’s French Institute is where they come. Housed in a beautiful villa overlooking the sea, Blake Lively and Princess Charlene of Monaco are just some of the people who have enrolled in the two to four-week intensive courses offered by this renowned language school—although I’m sure there were times when they were distracted from their lessons by the view from the classrooms.

Nightlife

Achill’s

The rooftop bar of Achill’sthe sea-facing restaurant joined to La Chapelle Saint-Pierre, grooves late on summer evenings to DJ-spun tunes, much to the delight of the crowd. Come here for party vibes and the best cocktails in the village, made using locally sourced ingredients such as a refreshing basil gin from Nice.

Best Restaurants

Mother Germaine

As much a part of the Villefranche landscape as La Chapelle Saint-Pierre and the traditional brightly-painted wooden fishing boats (known as pointed) in the marina, Mother Germaine has been plating up some of the best fresh seafood—with Mediterranean views—on the French Riviera since 1938. “It’s the classic address, but there’s a reason for that, and I’ve always eaten very well here,” says Haslett. Go for the signature dish: Bouillabaisse, a classic Provençal fish soup, prepared fresh every day in its kitchen with freshly-caught fish.

Mayssa Beach

The rooftop restaurant Mayssa Beach is a balcony over the Mediterranean. It’s so beautiful that it’s become a special occasion spot for many Riviera residents, who often come here to celebrate milestone birthdays and anniversaries. Fortunately, the menu matches the location and the eatery specializes in seafood, particularly local varieties such as rascasse (scorpion fish) and sea bream. Make reservations to snag a seat in the intimate dining room or an alfresco table on the rocks by the water.

Best Time to Visit

The best time to visit Villefranche-sur-Mer is between April and June, when restaurant terraces and small boutiques full of dresses stir from their winter slumber, but the summer tourists have yet to arrive. September is equally lovely, with warm days and cooler nights. The narrow, pedestrianized streets and Plage des Marinières beach can pack out quickly in July and August, although you can swerve the crowds in La Darse, the historic port on the western side of the Citadelle. Here you’ll also find a small rocky cove that locals prefer for swimming, tucked behind the breakwater. Winter has become my favorite season, as the village empties completely (and many restaurants shutter), yet my friends and I can still enjoy impromptu glasses of rosé by the water on sunny afternoons. The calendar fills with village fêtes around this time of year, and none are brighter than February’s Fleuri naval fight (Floral Naval Battle) when the region’s traditional wooden fishing boats are decorated in golden mimosas and other winter blooms.

How to Get There

If there’s one way to arrive in Villefranche, says Haslett, it’s by the water. “When you approach it from the sea, you can really take in the bay of Villefranche and appreciate the beauty of the place,” he says. A 30-minute drive from Nice Côte d’Azur Airport (NCE) or a 15-minute train ride from Nice Saint-Augustin station across from the airport is much more budget-friendly, though. Because of its deep harbor, Villefranche-sur-Mer is also a popular cruise port.

How to Get Around

The old town of Villefranche-sur-Mer, with its concentration of visitor attractions and restaurants, is easy to walk around—in fact, some streets are only navigable on foot. The residential upper reaches of the village, along the Moyenne and the Grand Corniches (the trio of coastal roads that cut through Villefranche), are connected by a series of staircases. However, the walk is very steep, so you might prefer to use a ride-hailing service such as Uber. Expect to pay up to 20 euros ( around $23 USD) for the 15-minute journey.