Ischia Is Italy’s Best-kept Secret

As we boarded the ferry from Naples to Ischia, all I could think about was how similar it felt to standing in line at a theme park. Anticipation and anxiety hung in the air, along with the faint, sweet smell of sunscreen. Children fidgeted in the relentless August heat. But we took it all in stride because a big payoff—in this case, that roller coaster high of a fabulous Italian island vacation—was waiting on the other side.

Fresh off a plane, my family and I looked suitably rumpled next to the unflappable, already sun-kissed Italians, clad in tight jeans, bold T-shirts, and swinging sundresses. The ferry arrived, and my husband, Rob, white-knuckled our suitcases onto the ship. The passengers’ luggage roasted outdoors, while we cooled down inside. I felt my shoulders drop an inch or two, with a coffee finally in hand. Rob and our son, Bobby, began to relax, too. “Let’s go!” I said. And we were off.

Arriving in Ischia

This was our second visit to Ischiaa destination that packs a lot of punch into 18 square miles. A volcanic speck in the cobalt Tyrrhenian Sea, the island is marked by healing waters and hot springs, vertiginous roads and lush landscapes. Famous landmarks include the Castello Aragonese—a Game of Thrones-esque fort and settlement, with roots dating to the 5th century BC—located off the village of Ischia Ponte. Day-long diversions include the Poseidon Gardens, a massive wellness center and thermal park with no less than 20 natural swimming pools.

Culinary pleasures include Ristorante La Pace alla Scarrupata, a casual, wear your best cover-up kind of tavern reachable from the water. Lured there by the promise of sangria and simply grilled fish, many plan to stay for an hour-long lunch—and end up leaving after four have passed.

We’ve now become loyalists to the Regina Isabellaa 121-room resort that gently angles up a hill in Lacco Ameno, on the northwest side of the island. Arguably Ischia’s most picturesque town, Lacco Ameno has casual restaurants, colorful shops selling everything from pottery to pasta, and glorious views of the sea. Italian families think nothing of letting their children wander freely, even at the delightfully late hour of 11 p.m. For an overscheduled New York City kid like Bobby, having the freedom to move on his own terms is just as intoxicating as eating chocolate and almond cake for breakfast—something we all indulged in at the resort’s open-air DolceVita restaurant, which serves an extraordinary buffet of fresh pastries, cheeses, and meats.

The Regina Isabella was built by publisher Angelo Rizzoli in the 1950s, and it still has regular, loyal guests that request the same room, year after year. The staff—a mostly Ischian crew—somehow manage to be both formal and relaxed. Come dinnertime, waiters clad in starched jackets pour dry local wines and serve hearty portions of homemade pasta with a flourish. Ask the all-knowing concierge, Raffaele Montefusco, for restaurant suggestions, and he will take pen to paper and present you with each recommendation on individual sheets, always with a smile.

On both our visits, we ran into just a handful of Americans: a surprise, given Ischia’s proximity to glitterati-filled Capri. But Ischia—which once attracted Hollywood royalty including Elizabeth Taylor and Richard Burton, on a break from filming Cleopatraand still lures the likes of Robert DeNiro—isn’t really for the attention-seekers. (Taylor and Burton may be the exception to that rule: rumor has it she once threw his clothes into the Regina Isabella’s pool, right from their balcony.)

“Other locations such as Capri or Positano have become a bit too crowded in recent years, or too expensive, or maybe even both,” explained Giancarlo Carriero, owner of the Regina Isabella, and a watchful, welcoming presence at the resort in the summer season. Carriero, who has owned the hotel for 45 years, continues to enhance the property, keeping up with the demands of today’s traveler. A Roman spa—equipped with two pools, a traditional Rasul steam room, and a cryotherapy chamber—is being added to the existing space, which already offers everything from mud wraps and restorative messages to inhalation therapies and detox programs. But the legacy details resonate the most. The original floors are a riot of brightly painted Neapolitan “Stingo” tiles, personally chosen by Rizzoli. (My favorites depict Neapolitan playing cards, in the old-school card room.) There are real linen sheets on the bed, always pressed to perfection.

But this is a destination that caters to more than just the one percent. In Elena Ferrante’s novel My Brilliant Friendthe characters dream big on crescent-shaped Maronti Beach—the island’s longest stretch of sand, near the humming town of Barano. A clutch of lovely but more modest hotels ring Maronti, which is reachable via a twisting drive. The well-appointed Hotel Parco Smeraldo Terme & Residence, for instance, is where we opted for an alfresco lunch of pesto pasta and grilled fish. Its healing spa, small beach club, and attentive service match the quality of the food.

On the pebbly shore of Maronti, a kaleidoscope of umbrellas and chairs sit tightly clustered together; so close you could read your neighbor’s novel. Children scream with delight. The waves can knock you on your feet, but you just might find yourself being helped up by a complete stranger.

An Island Worth Exploring

The likes of Armani, Miu Miu, and Pucci have yet to set up flagship boutiques in Ischia. And maybe that’s a good thing. I relish wandering the streets and popping into grocery stores, pharmacies, toy shops, and one-of-a-kind jewelry stores, like Gioielleria Cataneo, set in Casamicciola Terme. The shop is run by Alessandro Cataneo, whose grandfather moved to Ischia from Naples in 1954. Cataneo’s stunning rings, earrings, and necklaces are mostly fashioned from coral, though in recent years, he has been focusing on cameos—jewelry that features a relief carving.

“While one must have an eye for tradition, offering vintage coral pieces, I also try to satisfy customers who lean toward a more modern style,” Cataneo told me. This past spring, he collaborated with another local brand, Carolina, to produce a limited series of sandals featuring cameos. Shoppers who want something bespoke can first pick their cameo in Cataneo’s boutique, then walk to the Carolina boutique, where the shoes are made before their eyes.

In Lacco Ameno, Il Tarlo is the spot for estate jewelry; Sergio Modamare for wallet-friendly linen shirts and dresses; and Mario d’Ischia for custom leather sandals. The latter is a family-run boutique where ribbons of colorful leather and designs galore are on display, and patrons can get customized shoes in a couple of days. I usually go with a vow to buy just one pair, and walk out with three.

It seems fitting that the shop is now doing a collaboration with Issimo—a commerce, lifestyle, and editorial brand created by Marie-Louise Sciò, the CEO and Creative Director of Pellicano Hotels Italy, which counts Ischia’s Mezzatore Hotel & Thermal Spa as part of its portfolio. In 2019, Scio refashioned the 48-room property, which includes a centuries-old, unfinished watchtower, into a stylish resort with modern sensibilities. This includes a whimsical, tented dining area and an expertly curated boutique, along with a pool perched dramatically above a bay. “I adore how Ischia perfectly balances past and present, evoking the carefree elegance of the 1970s,” Sciò said. She also told me that more guests are now choosing to stay well into October—something not as common in the past. Perhaps it has to do with the changing weather, or wanting a slower pace. No matter what time of year you go, I guarantee you’ll find respite here, especially if you pop into Bar La Torre during aperitivo hour, as the fading sun gives the entire hotel a soft, rose-colored hue.

Since Mezzatore’s arrival, other island entrepreneurs have followed suit, upping their game with various enhancements. The 65-room San Montano Resort & Spawhich offers panoramic views from the top of Mount Vico, now has reimagined interiors from innovative architects Rino Gambardella and Claudio Pulicati. There’s also a new two-bedroom Lighthouse Suite, which sleeps up to six (and has a magical, glass-enclosed living space) at the highest point of the resort. “When creating the Lighthouse Suite, we wanted our guests to feel like they were staying in our home,” Francesco De Siano, co-owner and sales director of San Montano, said. Opened in July 2023, Faro Punta Imperatore hotel is also set in a historic lighthouse. Renovated over the course of seven years, it now has a rooftop terrace and bar, along with four contemporary suites—ideal for a buyout.

In the town of Forio, also on the northwest side of the island, we discovered phenomenal pizzas at Lisola Restaurant. It’s the brainchild of a few Italian makers: Venetian designer Federico de Majo, founder of the lighting and glassware brand Zafferano, and chefs Ivano Veccia and Nino Di Costanzo. (Di Costanzo also created Ischia’s fine dining spot Daní Maison.) The open-concept kitchen allowed us to see the army of chefs at work, slinging out fried, Roman, and Neapolitan-style pizzas. As the action took place, the fashionable crowd lounged on the beautifully landscaped outdoor dining area, grazing on the pies and taking pictures of the sea.

Securing a table with a view (and a 7 p.m. dining reservation) is definitely a thing in Ischia. And so, for one of our last meals, I landed on Of Mariaa casual restaurant with direct views of the Castello Aragonese. After calling ahead for a water taxi in Ischia Ponte, we were ferried over to Da Maria’s pier, and then welcomed into the open-air dining room, which faces the Gulf of Naples. The castle was aglow. Plates of spaghetti vongole and penne puttanesca were consumed, along with heaping portions of swordfish and prawns, calamari, and clams.

We even convinced Bobby, a fussy eater, to try rabbit cooked in tomatoes, oil, garlic—simple, yet key ingredients found right in the Italian pantry. It’s a local delicacy, and to our surprise, he ate the whole thing. Maybe it’s because we let him stay up late the night before.